Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Belly button lint, culturally speaking

I present some other random and not-so-random observations about Japanese people and culture. Warning about keeping your expectations realistic. Will the following be a stimulating investigation with a heavy academic bent? Hmm, doubt it. Strange perspectives and tongue-in-cheek humor (translation: bad writing) that may kill some grey matter and make you laugh to the point where you snort milk out of your nose? Hopefully. You've been warned.

Collected over several months of... ahem... rigorous field analysis.

About bodily contact:

In Japanese culture, physical contact among casual acquaintances or strangers is not really allowed. It can be rather strange and uncomfortable for the touchee.

BUT… the rules are broken when boarding trains. With regards to getting a seat or just getting onto the train, it's every every man, woman, child for him/herself. Pushing, elbowing, and grabbing the side of the door or the top of the door frame to leverage body into the car is the norm.

One cool trick: turning your back to the doorway of the train to “back into” the car – as if it is less intrusive than just walking directly into the car face first.

For women, the rules are back in force once they sit down. Woman shy away when men sit down next to them; seemingly afraid of incidental and even unpreventable contact. Something as minor as brushing your arm or elbow against theirs seems out of bounds for Japanese women. I usually have to sit with my hands on my lap (not resting on my crotch... that might offend their sensibilities), resting on top of my backpack, or out in front near my knees so women don’t think I am trying to feel them up or grab them by pretending to cross my arms in front of my chest (a technique used by Japanese guys). Considering how perverted lots of Japanese guys are, I guess they have good reason to be paranoid but it leaves me feeling just a bit dirty.

About being subservient:

The Japanese need to display subservience at any given moment and at various levels.
Lower managers modify their voices (kind of like what we in the West consider as baby talk) with upper managers. This is accompanied with constant bowing and the shuffling of feet.

Office ladies (a.k.a. secretaries and often, glorified secretaries) with otherwise normal (and oftentimes amazingly husky) voices speak with a timbre reminiscent of the 3rd grade or perhaps Shirley Temple. Again, imagine baby talk, but in an office environment. Office ladies, or OLs, also usually wear black shoes (no heels) and black stockings that cover their calves. My guess is that they are not allowed to look sexy in any way whatsoever as this would be a distraction for the male occupants of the office, and that my friends, would be an indication of the sway of sexual power that women have over men. Generally though, I wouldn't think it makes a big difference to the guys, as they are usually fantasizing about digitally-created bimbos, school girls, and tentacle sex.

Note to reader: the Japanese have an odd fascination with sexual intercourse involving a human and a tentacled partner, preferably a giant octopus or squid. This has been portrayed in Japanese wood block prints from the 18th and early 19th centuries, so I am not making this up.

The word “to arrive" or "to come” – mairimasu vs kimasu – both carry the same denotation, but the former is used by the subordinate to lower his/her position in regards to the other person. For example, if I were to tell my boss that I am coming to his office, I would use mairimasu. If he were to tell me the same, he would use kimasu. Mairimasu is also used in the train station announcements to say that the train is arriving. To whom the train is subordinate to, I couldn't tell you.

Things that are not strange, just different:


I once was in a 7-11 at around 10 o'clock at night. A beverage delivery man walked in with the next day's shipment of drinks and says ohayougozaimasu – "good morning" - to the store clerk. Mind you, it's still nearly 2 hours until midnight, what we could officially but not normally consider as morning. It's my understanding that people that work night shifts always say "good morning", regardless of the actual time.

Japanese people like to say otsukaresamadesu - this is a short phrase to express acknowledgement that what you just had to endure was tiring and perhaps troublesome. This is spoken between friends and/or colleagues after drinking parties or group dinners or a night out singing karaoke, said to the passenger by the taxi driver after arriving at your destination, and between colleagues after work when leaving the office. It is also necessary to say this to colleagues when answering phone calls from them, or vice versa.

Once I saw an old woman using her shoe to push a piece of garbage into a rain water gutter running along a flight of stairs. The strange thing was, the gutter was, at the most, 1 inch deep and a couple inches wide, so shoving the garbage (it was a plastic wrapper) into the gutter didn’t hide it at all. The pragmatist in me says that she was moving it out of the way of other pedestrians so they wouldn't slip on it and fracture a tibia. The cynicist in me says that she cared so much about the appearance of the stairs that it didn't register in her mind that she could have better preserved the purity of this public through way if she had just picked the garbage up and thrown it away in a rubbish bin.

Note to reader: The reason that Japan is so clean is because there are practically no trash cans or rubbish bins in public areas like sidewalks and train stations. No trash cans = no trash. Where does all the trash go then? That, my friend, is the million yen question. Answer? On the sidewalk! And no, Japan is NOT as clean as the rest of the world thinks. The trash is just more well hidden!

From a pep talk given to me and another colleague by our Japanese manager (and I paraphrase) – "It doesn’t matter how much you really know or what your skills are – all that matters is that if asked to do something… anything… your reply every time should be: 'Yes, I can do it.' "

The person at KFC forgot to add the side dish to a set menu that I ordered for take out. After calling them to let them know about it, a person from KFC came to my apartment to deliver the food and apologize. All I can say is... wow.

One night I decided to order sushi from a sushi restaurant that delivers. After taking my order on the phone, I innocently asked the sushi restaurant worker how long it would take. She replied that the delivery would take over 2 hours. What kills me is not the fact that there was a 2 hour hold up on sushi delivery on that particular night but rather that she would not have told me if I had not asked. Again... wow.

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Life is tough... here.

Today I feel like writing about random things so pardon my meandering. If you get bored, just enter another URL into your browser bar and I will disappear!

I have lived in Japan now for a total of 24 months. The first stint for 10 months, and now on my second attempt, which is going on its 14th month. I will be seeing my 3rd winter in Japan... and I DO love winter.

In my short time here, it's questionable whether I have really learned anything about Japan and its culture that I did not learn in academic study or via my own reading. Granted, my language skills are getting better... slowly... and thus I am able to pick up more and more cultural nuances through the language. But still... in general, I think my brain hasn't gained much since the day I first arrived in Japan over 3 years ago. In fact, I might be getting dumber.

One thing I HAVE perfected is how to EMULATE being Japanese. Not actually becoming Japanese, but just pretending to do so. For example:

- I sometimes bow when I talk to someone over the phone, especially my managers.

- I have the vexing habit of saying "maybe" a LOT more than I used to. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, for example, when I look up at a gray sky and say "Maybe it will rain today". But it does get kind of annoying when people ask me, for example:

1. if my mother is a woman or
2. if the ocean contains salt water or
3. if 2 plus 2 equals 4

... and I reply with "Maybe".

- I say "Sorry" instead of "Thank You" when people do things for me. Or the opposite case where I expect a "Sorry" to come when "Thank You" is the only appropriate reply. This happened just recently on a flight back from the US. After I helped a woman lift her suitcase into the overhead compartment, she said "Thanks". I said "No, no, it's really okay". See? I thought she was going to apologize, so I was already telling her not to.

If perhaps after another couple years living in Japan that scenario plays itself out again, I would probably whip out a sushi knife and chip off my pinky so as to apologize for helping her.

I am coming to the sad realization that I am one of those foreigners that can never quite get comfortable with Japanese culture. Despite my cognitive abilities to rationalize the "whys" and "hows" of the culture, my heart (and admittedly, lack of patience) is screaming "That is completely, utterly, [insert colorful metaphor here] wrong and idiotic! That doesn't make ANY sense at all! Why, in MY country, we do things this way....."

When, of course, I am NOT in my country, but theirs.

Which begs the question, especially in an office environment and business context... being ethnocentric isn't necessarily wrong, is it? So many East Asian (indeed, Asian, in general) companies have already or are adapting a Western style of doing business. So why can't I speak up as an employee in my company and demand (heck, even just recommend) that we do things the Western way? One thing is for certain: the fact that I work for an ultra-conservative, ultra-traditional Japanese company contributes 95% to my misery in the land of the rising sun.

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

No more excuses

I have decided to stop making excuses for not blogging regularly. Of course, the fact that I work in a Japanese company and spend a considerable amount of time on trains suffering the odor of drunken old Japanese businessmen may have something to do with my absence from the blogging world. But anyway....

From now on, I will only post a blog once a year. The date and content will be unannounced. The tale, whether fact or fiction, elegantly written in my classic style. Those of you either lucky or bored enough to stumble onto my little niche in this world wide web at precisely the right moment will be bestowed a gift beyond gratitude.

Disclaimer: I may feel motivated now and then and post several blogs a year. Whoo.

Oh, and another thing. I won't hide it. This blog is all about ME. Not anyone else. Not about Japanese or East Asian culture. Not about travel and adventure. Just me. Let's drop the facade, people; we wouldn't be here right now if we didn't enjoy talking about ourselves and having the rest of you read about us. This is, after all, the "Me" generation... us with our own little "niches in this world wide web". Who are we fooling anyway? The internet has no boundaries. It's ethereal. Neither physical nor temporal. Can we really carve niches out of nothing? Nothing save a bunch of 1's and 0's, at least.

With all that said and done, stay tuned for the next series of 1's and 0's about me and my life and the things that only I care about.

Cheers.